The holiday season is here, filled with its bright lights, festive music and family and friends. It’s also a chance to step back and reflect on the many gifts in our lives. At this time just over two years ago, there wasn’t much to celebrate at the South Street Seaport in New York City. Devastated by Hurricane Sandy’s floodwaters, the area still remains just a shell of its former self. But while there is a lot of rebuilding to do, the storm didn’t sink the Seaport’s spirit, and a visit here can warm the heart.
A Little Ice
My husband, Douglas, and I decided to take our two children to the Seaport last December after hearing there was a skating rink installed for the holidays. When we arrived at the corner of Fulton and Water Streets we were greeted by a beautifully decorated Christmas tree. Right behind the tree was the ice rink, the main attraction of South Street’s seasonal offerings.
OK, I’ll admit the tree and rink are a great deal smaller than the famous ones uptown in Rockefeller Center, but that’s part of the appeal! The crowds here won’t overwhelm you. To get on the ice, simply pay for admission at the “See/Change” shop located near the rink at 19 Fulton St. This is also where you can rent skates and helmets (toddler skates size 8 and up are available). And you will definitely get your money’s worth, because there is no time limit for skaters and no age limit either. My daughter, Ava, and I were both a little wobbly on our skates, but staff members were there to help us up when we fell. Skating lessons are also available.
Shopping and Santa
Once we got our fill on the ice, we decided to check out the shops around the rink. Many of the storefronts that were empty after Hurricane Sandy now have tenants, offering everything from food and art to souvenirs (and they absolutely appreciate having customers). Last year, a temporary row of shops was also set up just outside the shuttered Fulton Fish Market. There was a vendor selling coffee products, another selling hats and gloves and another selling clothes. But the biggest hit with Ava and her little brother, Gavin, was the outpost of Santa’s Workshop (no surprise there). Jolly Old Saint Nick was inside, eager to smile for pictures. And if that’s not enough to get you in the holiday mood, you may also be lucky enough to hear the sounds of the season. During our visit, a group of carolers called The Mistletones sang classics such as “The Chipmunk Song (Christmas Don’t Be Late)” and “O Holy Night” right near the skating rink. They were really good.
See the sights
After you’ve wrapped up your skating and shopping, I recommend taking some time to walk around the picturesque cobblestone streets of the area. A few rows of restored 19th-century brick buildings give a glimpse of what the Seaport was like in its heyday, when it was the commercial hub of New York City. You can just imagine the sailors, merchants and immigrants bustling around with goods of all kinds while the masts from the throngs of tall ships bobbed up and down on the East River. A few of those historic ships still remain in dock as part of the South Street Seaport Museum and some are open for visitors.
Back on Water Street, you can pop inside Bowne & Co. Stationers where artists still use 19th-century letterpresses to print all sorts of cool items. We saw a restaurant menu being made and then browsed through the cards and posters for sale.
Another piece of history is located right outside the shop. The white structure with a small time ball at the top is actually the Titanic Memorial Lighthouse, dedicated to the passengers and crew who died when the great ship sank in 1912. Standing at the lighthouse, you can look back toward the heart of South Street and admire the old buildings adorned with beautiful white lights.
South Street has certainly gone through a lot of ups and downs in the last two centuries. In recent years, many New Yorkers considered it a place overrun with tourists, dominated by a huge mall on Pier 17 that had over-priced chain stores and tacky souvenir shops. But that mall is now gone, along with a lot of the tourists. Hurricane Sandy also hit the area in its gut. But the tides look to be changing in its favor, with grand plans for redevelopment. In the meantime, it’s a vibrant place steeped in history that is waiting to be rediscovered.
When You Go…
South Street Seaport
89 South St., New York
212-732-8257
southstreetseaport.com
Dates & Times
Ice Rink Public Skating Hours
(through Feb. 23, 2015):
Monday-Thursday, Noon-9 p.m.
Friday, Noon-10 p.m.
Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
Admission
(subject to change, include sales tax):
Admission: $10, children 5 and under free
Skate Rental: $6
Helmet Rental: $6
Bag Check: $8
Skate Sharpening: $12
Andrea White is an Edgemont-based writer who loves to go on adventures with her family.
